Day 9 - Kawnipi Lake (Monday, August 11)
(no mileage recorded, no portages)
I was up with a blazing sunrise that cut through the morning mist like a hot campfire stick through a marshmallow.
The weather had produced yet another beautiful day, and I would take full advantage.
A canoe or two passed by early, but then I had the whole place to myself the rest of the day.
On tap was a full day of exploring nearby waters and fishing.
I prepared the canoe shortly after breakfast and headed right out.
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Blazing sunrise at island campsite on Kawnipi Lake.
(click on any image for larger version)
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Morning views from island campsite. (Kawnipi Lake)
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View of island campsite's west bay. (Kawnipi Lake)
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I first explored the channels hugging the larger island just south of camp.
The currents around this island were particularly strong, and I had to work hard to situate the canoe for fishing.
At one point an otter watched me with some amusement as I paddled back and forth, but I must have quickly bored him as he soon let the flow carry him away.
These rough waters were productive, however, and they produced plenty of smallmouth and a few northern.
At one point I saw a large fish jump right at the opening to the fast moving narrows to the west.
I quickly cast out to the spot and almost immediately got a huge bite.
The fish then darted behind an enormous boulder just as the current began carrying the canoe around to the other side.
After a bit of maneuvering I finally managed to get the line straight again and proceeded to reel the fish close.
I couldn't tell for sure from the brief look I got at it, but the fish appeared to be a very large smallmouth, by far the biggest I would see on this trip.
But of course the line, weakened from being scraped across the boulder, snapped before I could get the fish into the canoe.
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Falls at south fork. (Kahshahpiwi Creek)
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Rapids at north fork. (Kahshahpiwi Creek)
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I continued drifting downstream until I hit some turbulent water at a fork in the creek caused by a large island.
The water heading south went over a small falls while the water going north cascaded down some rapids.
There was a portage around the falls, and I landed there to take a look around.
I would be crossing this portage again later when I resumed my trip southwest.
The trail was very short, and at the far end was a great view of the falls.
I stopped here a short while to make a few casts and to soak in the sights and sounds.
After the falls I paddled over to the north fork of the creek and proceeded to climb a cliff running alongside the rapids.
The view from the top was spectacular, a prime example of the wild beauty that is Quetico.
I think the joy of discovering a place like this is probably the foremost reason I take these trips.
It's the ultimate prize after days of hard travel, a reward that must be earned.
Places like this cannot be found along any paved road.
The value in their discovery comes as much from the sense of achievement as it does from the sights and sounds.
I returned to my island campsite late in the afternoon, and with the rocks used in the anchor bag, I spent a little time making improvements to the campsite's inuksuk.
This was going to be my final night's stay here, so I also began making preparations for an early departure in the morning.
As I was doing this, I spotted a cow moose feeding across the bay behind the island.
I watched her until she finally walked back into the woods.
By this time the light was fading fast, so I quickly finished getting the gear ready for travel.
The mosquitos were particularly bad this evening, and I retired early to the tent for a good night's sleep.
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Improved inuksuk.
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Evening moose in west bay. (Kawnipi Lake)
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Route Map, Day 9 (click to enlarge)
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Video (click image to play)
