Day 6 - East Falls Chain (Friday, August 8)
5.4 miles, 6 portages (day trip)
I awoke just after sunrise to find a large bull moose feeding by the channel leading to the Falls Chain.
I watched him feast on aquatic vegetation for over half an hour before he finally crossed the channel and crashed into the woods down the shore from camp.
I snapped off a bunch of pictures but really couldn't get very close.
In an effort to pack light I hadn't brought any telephoto lenses for my DSLR, so I simply had to make do with what I had.
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Early morning bull moose down the shore from camp on Wet Lake.
(click on any image for larger version)
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During breakfast, the family camped across the lake paddled by on their way through, their yellow and white canoes reflecting the bright morning sun.
It was another gorgeous day in canoe country, and I was anxious to get started exploring the famous Falls Chain.
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Family I met yesterday paddles by. (Wet Lake)
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The Falls Chain is a river system that flows roughly east to west from Saganagons Lake to Kawnipi Lake.
Along the way is a series of lovely waterfalls that inspire some to call it one of the most beautiful areas in all of Quetico.
These same waterfalls, however, also bring with them an element of danger.
Before traveling this area, paddlers are strongly encouraged to study the maps and learn the recommended ways in and out of each portage along the way.
Strong currents and the close proximity of some portage landings to their respective falls can create serious problems or even end a trip.
My particular trip route to date had brought me to about the midway point along the Falls Chain.
I would be traveling the western half of the chain later when I resumed my primary route up to Kawnipi Lake, but today I was touring the eastern half.
The day's journey began with a tight squeeze through the channel out of Wet Lake and was soon followed by a careful paddle up a swift current at the first narrows heading east along Sidney Lake.
After a healthy paddle across Sidney Lake I began to hear the rumble of Bald Rock Falls.
Bald Rock is a broad falls with a larger top step that cascades down onto a shorter lower step before spreading out into Sidney Lake.
The portage passes over a large, flat section of bald granite just to the north, and on the south side sits a campsite that happened to be occupied when I passed through.
I stopped for photos and spent a lot of time perched on a small ledge right beside the falls.
It was hard to fully imagine the force of all this water rushing by, but its power could definitely be heard in its thundering roar and felt in its steady pounding against the ledge.
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Bald Rock Falls. (Falls Chain)
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Bald Rock Falls.
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Portage around Bald Rock Falls. (Falls Chain)
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I was eventually chased back to my canoe by a huge swarm of large gnat-like insects that had originally greeted me when I arrived at the edge of the falls.
The insects were non-biting but got all over everything, including into my day pack, onto the camera equipment and into my eyes.
Overall, the bugs had not been much of a problem on this trip, but every now and then they still made sure to remind me that they were around.
After reaching the canoe, I packed up and headed for the next set of falls.
Four Falls, roughly configured as two sets of two falls each, was just a short paddle further east, and I soon saw the first pair come into view.
These four falls and the body of water between them could easily be considered the most picturesque part of the entire Falls Chain.
Each set of falls is essentially a split in the river divided by an island.
In between the sets of falls is a beautiful waterway with a few additional islands of its own.
The combination of falls, trees and islands in this area all combine to create a true photographer's dream.
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Four Falls. (Falls Chain)
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Four Falls. (Falls Chain)
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Four Falls. (Falls Chain)
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Between Four Falls. (Falls Chain)
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Between Four Falls. (Falls Chain)
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I spent the entire afternoon in this area around Four Falls, paddling the waterway, walking the portage trails and snapping pictures.
Not surprisingly, I encountered a few groups passing through during this time, specifically a group of four kayakers heading west and another group of three tandem canoes traveling east.
I briefly spoke with the kayakers who told me that their destination was McEwen Lake.
They asked whether McEwen had looked busy when I had passed through the previous day, and I assured them it had been very quiet and that I seriously doubted they would have any problem finding their campsite of choice.
By late afternoon it was time to return to my campsite and maybe do a little fishing.
I hit a stiff headwind on my way back, but after only about an hour of paddling, the channel to Wet Lake came into view.
As I was pushing the canoe through the narrow waterway I thought I heard the sharp cracking of tree branches breaking off to the side, back in the trees.
I didn't see anything but was reminded of the moose that had been feeding here earlier this morning.
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Bull moose returns near camp in the evening.
(Wet Lake)
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I finally reached camp minutes later and dropped a few things off.
I then headed right back onto the lake to fetch some water and begin looking for firewood along the shore.
As I was dipping my water bottle into the lake I looked up just in time to spot the bull moose from this morning wading across the channel, just where I had been paddling moments before.
I quickly returned to camp where I had left the camera and continued to watch and photograph this magnificent creature until he eventually lumbered back into the woods.
A second attempt to paddle the nearby shores looking for firewood was again interrupted, only this time by approaching clouds and thunder.
I once again returned to camp to wait out the brief thundershower, but decided that an evening of fishing and campfires just wasn't in the cards tonight.
The weather had become too unpredictable, and the revolving periods of high winds and showers had depleted the remaining daylight hours.
I rehydrated a freeze-dried meal, chewed on some beef jerky and drew the curtains on another eventful day on the Canadian Shield.
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Evening storm moves in, then later clouds open. (Wet Lake)
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Route Map, Day 6 (click to enlarge)
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Falls Chain Map (click to enlarge)
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Video (click image to play)
